Hubballi, also spelt Hubli, is one of Karnataka’s largest cities. It sits in the northern part of the state, about 400 kilometres from Bengaluru. It is a commercial and educational hub, not a tourist destination in the conventional sense.
To tell the truth, Hubballi is a city where I had no particular feelings before my trip. It was simply a stop on the way that made sense, a place that I had been to but had never spent any time there. I booked a hotel instantly and arrived with absolutely no expectations. That turned out to be exactly the right way to arrive.
What Hubballi actually is?
There are no famous viewpoints. No hill station charm. No heritage monument that draws visitors from across the country. What Hubballi has instead is a genuine, unhurried city character that most commercial places in India have quietly lost.
The food was the first surprise
Initially, I didn’t think much about the food. I did not expect food that would stop me mid-bite and make me reconsider every assumption I had carried in. North Karnataka cuisine has its own unique identity. The jolada roti – thick, unleavened sorghum flatbread served with spiced brinjal curry and a smear of ghee – was the first meal I had after checking in.Â
It was at a small, no-frills restaurant near the old city area. The roti was slightly charred at the edges, soft in the centre, and paired with a curry that had depth and heat in equal measure. I went back to the same place the next morning.
Noorani Masjid and the Old City: quiet and layered
A stroll through the old city section surrounding Noorani Masjid can be quite a satisfying experience while in Hubballi. The mosque itself is large and well-maintained, providing a peaceful courtyard amidst the city’s usual hustle and bustle.
The streets surrounding the masjid illustrate the character of an age-old city that has been conducting its affairs quietly. Old buildings, small shops, and several street food joints abound in the vicinity. I happened to be here on a Sunday morning, when I was able to experience the peacefulness of this part of town.
Chandramouleshwara Temple: older than it looks
The Chandramouleshwara Temple in the heart of Hubballi is a Shiva temple with origins going back several centuries. Though not as luxurious or popular as the temples in Hampi and Badami, it continues to maintain its sanctity as a form of faith which is above any kind of visual pleasure.
I visited it on a weekday evening when a small group was performing the evening prayers. The fragrance of incense, the ringing of the bells, and the dim lighting inside the mandapa gave an air of serenity. I sat by the entrance for some time before leaving.
The Unnamatagi Basavanna Temple: worth the detour
Just outside the main city area is the Unnamatagi Basavanna Temple, a Veerashaiva shrine that draws local devotees throughout the week. The temple architecture is distinctive, and the environment around it on a weekend morning is lively without being overwhelming.
I found it almost by accident, following a recommendation from the hotel’s front desk. It was the kind of find that comes to you when you are not following a fixed plan. Worth the auto ride. Worth the extra hour.
The Bangalore-Pune Highway surprise: good coffee exists here
Hubballi sits on one of Karnataka’s main highway corridors, and the city has picked up a quiet but authentic café culture as a result. Near the commercial areas around Koppikar Road and the newer parts of the city, there are small cafés serving filter coffee that compete seriously with anything you would find in Bengaluru.
On the second morning, I stopped at a small coffee shop close to Koppikar Road. The coffee was hot and strong, poured down in a steel tumbler without any formalities. A few saucers with khara biscuits were also added.Â
The surprise that stayed with me longest
Hubballi does not exhibit its magnificence to visitors. It is not geared towards tourism. And yet I had a genuinely good time. That’s because a city that is simply itself, without the self-consciousness that tourism brings, has a kind of ease to it that is increasingly hard to find.
I came back with the memory of good food, slow mornings, amazing hotels in Hubli and a city that asked nothing of me and gave more than I expected. That is a better outcome than most trips manage.
